Went on a three-hour Chobe River cruise yesterday afternoon, herds of animals grazing in the evening light including water buffalo, elephants, hippo, impala, birds. Hardly even minded sharing the experience with the five other launch-loads of tourists on the same stretch of water..
This morning I walked out of Botswana and into a hairy taxi ride, heading east through desolate scrubland from the Zimbabwe border post in a beaten-up sedan, running literally on empty. More specifically, running on fuel siphoned into a plastic jerrycan mounted under the bonnet (hood) – we two passengers had to get out and push after a second top-up. The driver though was a well-spoken Zimbabwean, well-educated, a former hotel receptionist who now has to support his family by hustling for passengers.
By mid-morning we reached the tourist town of Victoria Falls; superficially, all quite civilised except for the pesky craft vendors, but their desperation and the occasional boarded-up store are telling. Dry season notwithstanding, the falls were magnificent: nature’s own moisturiser spray!