After four magic nights and days in Istanbul, we have hit the boondocks. Eceabat, a scruffy ferry port on the Dardanelles southwest of the capital, is a jump-off point for touring the Gallipoli Peninsula but feels like a Third World backwater after the smart stores and slick subway trains of Istanbul. Not to mention the teeming markets, tourist hordes and cultural monuments of the so-called European Capital of Culture 2010.
It’s a small price to pay for the experience of revisiting a city which has become one of Europe’s most rewarding destinations.
Yesterday saw us two lunching beside the Bosphorus, sampling the best calamari we have ever savoured, plus a selectıon of exquisite mezze or appetisers. Pricey, but priceless. Tonight, it’s back to the döner kebab.